Matty Matheson’s Sichuan Chilli Oil Smashed Cucumber with Soy-Cured Egg (Salad)

Serves: 4 – 6

As Matty Matheson says it:

This is just one of the best things ever. The textures and tastes set you up for a perfect meal. Normally, smashed cucumbers are often served simply as a side to just nibble on while you’re waiting for noodles or dumplings to come out. I think this treatment takes the cucumbers to more of comprehensive dish. This is so refreshing. The soy eggs are just Banana Town. Since we’re making a cookbook, we could make something like this a main event. I’m so hyped on this salad, and I know this will be a staple for you and your family or friends, or maybe your lover

This is a sophisticated Asian salad, no doubt.

The black vinegar chilli crisp dressing is sensational and I’ve prepared it separately for different salads of rocket, avocado and poached green beans with great effect.

The soy sauce eggs are the lux element. This shows effort and it won’t go unnoticed.

Christmas is the time for salad and winding down.

This salad is worth every bit of effort.

And save that dressing on its own. Chilli crisp is brilliant.

(There are 5 tbsp of toasted sesame seeds in total here: just a pre-warning.)

(And the eggs need no less than 6 hours resting and ideally overnight.)

Ingredients

Soy Sauce Egges

6 eggs
1/2 c water
1 c soy sauce
3/4 c mirin

Cucumber Salad

2 English cucumbers, cut into 6cm strips*
Salt
1/2 red onion, sliced as thinly as possible
1/2 bunch coriander, chopped
1/2 bunch spring onions, chopped
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Black Vinegar Chilli Crisp Dressing

1/4 c chilli crisp**
2 tbsp black vinegar
2 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
Zest and juice of 1 lime
2 garlic cloves, grated
1 small knob ginger, grated
2 tbsp grapeseed oil

Method

  1. Starting with the soy sauce eggs: bring a large pot of water to the boil and carefully lower each egg into the pot and set your timer for 6 minutes. Transfer the eggs to an ice bath until they get cold, then peel them.
  2. To marinate the eggs, place a Ziplock bag in a small bowl. Fill it with the water, soy sauce and mirin, add the eggs and squeeze out the air to ensure the eggs are fully covered by the soy mixture. Seal and store in the fridge for a minimum of 6 hours and ideally a day.
  3. When you are ready to make the salad, get ready to smash the cucumbers. Lay them out on a chopping board and smash them with the bottom of a pot. Transfer them to a strainer set over a bowl, generously salt them and place them in the fridge for 30 minutes: when done, press them with paper towels to remove all the moisture you can.
  4. In a large bowl, mix the red onion, coriander and spring onions.
  5. Make the dressing by combining all of the dressing ingredients and combine/shake well.
  6. Carefully remove the soy eggs from their bath and break them up gently with your hands. Be artful.
  7. When you’re ready to serve, get a large platter out. First put down the smashed cucumber. Toss with the dressing. Top with the broken up soy eggs. Add the coriander, onion and spring onions and top with the sesame seeds.

* I used Lebanese. There are apparently 100 varieties of cucumber in the world and whilst they vary (seedless vs non-seedless, thicker vs thinner skin), I lost no sleep over this.

** I cannot – cannot – overemphasis the need to find this which isn’t hard. The substitute is not jarred chilli or chilli oil. In fact, even the best substitute suggestions on Google are lukewarm and suggest you get off your arse.

Ajoy Joshi’s Spiced Yoghurt Cauliflower Florets

Serves: 4 – 6 with rice

Back from a week in New Caledonia and far too much fine French food (is there such a thing), we were down for a late Friday afternoon curry.

Yes, New Caledonia is amazing. First world, superb food, great bars, 10/10.

Enter the always-reliable Ajoy Joshi with an absolutely moorish cauliflower curry.

Simple, though packed with flavour and wonderful spice.

The sliced ginger are just an added benefit.

If you’re after a cleaner Indian vegetable to go alongside a great curry – I cooked this incredible Doi Murgi (Bangladeshi Yoghurt Chicken Curry) by Dina Begum – this is it.

And yes, I know Indian and Bangladeshi cuisines are different, though these two paired perfectly.

Ingredients

1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 c vegetable oil
1 pinch powdered asafoetida
1 tsp cumin seeds
1kg cauliflower, cut into small florets with long stems attached
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp chilli powder
3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced thinly
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp garam masala
1 tbs fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp plain whole-milk yoghurt
2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped

Method

  1. In a spice grinder, grind coriander seeds. Set aside.
  2. In a wok or deep frying pan, heat oil over medium heat. When oil is hot, add asafoetida and cumin and cook, stirring for 20 seconds. Add cauliflower florets, cover and cook until they start to soften.
  3. Uncover and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Then cover and cook until florets start to brown. Once again, uncover and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Finally, cover and cook for 1 – 2 minutes more. (The cauliflower should be golden-brown.)
  4. Reduce heat to low and add salt, chilli powder, ginger, ground coriander, turmeric, garam masala, lemon juice and yoghurt. Mix well and cook, tossing for 2 minutes to blend the flavours.
  5. Serve immediately sprinkled with the coriander.

Vikrant Kapoor’s Chickpea Curry (Channa Masala)

Serves: 4

Zaafran used to be one of Sydney’s best Indian restaurants. My best mate Giles and I would often go there for lunch, overlooking Darling Harbour and the city.

As Darling Harbour (now demolished) slowly merged from a stylish shopping centre and destination to a tourist trap full of ugg boot and opal sellers, Giles and I stopped visiting. Though what great memories and food: nothing beats a midweek lunch and a bottle of cold white.

This is the second Vikrant Kapoor recipe I have cooked. The first was this tremendous barramundi, something that was simply 5-star.

This chickpea curry’s simplicity is deceptive. The clarity of the flavours is just awesome and it was just a perfect side to this Pushpesh Pant Chicken with Fenugreek Leaves.

Arguably, it was much more than a side. Brilliant.

Ingredients

1 large potato, unpeeled
1 tbsp ghee
1 large onion, chopped
1 large tomato, puréed
2 tsp ginger garlic paste
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp chilli powder
450gm canned chickpeas, drained
1 tsp salt
Coriander leaves, to garnish

Method

  1. Cook the potato in a pan of boiling water for about 10 minutes or until tender. Drain and allow to cool, then peel and cut into cubes. Set aside.
  2. Heat the ghee in a frying pan, add the onion, tomato, ginger garlic paste, cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli powder and cook for 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and chickpeas and 1/2 c lukewarm water and cook for 5 minutes or until hot. Garnish with coriander.

Maunika Gowardhan’s Chicken Curry cooked with Fried Onions, Tomato, Spices and Garam Masala (Murgh do Pyaza)

Serves: 4

Another cracker from Maunika Gowardhan.

The addition of the chargrilled shallots at the end is the clincher here, adding great texture and flavour: though the whole curry is just a wonderful Saturday night in sort of curry. Plus the potato adds even more luxury when accompanied by the couch, dimmed lights, a glass of red and a good movie.

Somewhat on the Colonial Indian side of cooking.

Definitely one to bookmark. (And do yourself a calorie favour, even on a Saturday night: substitute this great cauliflower rice for rice and cut your calories by 90%!)

Ingredients

1kg skinless chicken thigh, cut into bite-sized pieces
6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped*
2″ ginger, roughly chopped*
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 bay leaves
2 dried mild red chillies
200gm white onions, finely chopped
1 1/2 mild chilli powder (or Kashmiri chilli powder)
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tbsp cumin powder
1 tbsp cumin powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
200gm tomatoes pureed to a paste
140gm Greek yoghurt whisked
150ml water
140gm baby potatoes, roughly chopped
Sal to taste
1 tbsp garam masala
Coriander for garnish

For the shallots

2 tbsp vegetable oil
200gm shallots peeled and halved

Method

  1. Grind the garlic and ginger in a blender with a splash of water. In a large mixing bowl add the chicken, and mix in the garlic ginger paste. Mix well and set aside for an hour or overnight preferably.
  2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottom sauce pan over a medium flame. Add the bay leaves and chilli and fry for a few seconds. Add the onion and fry for 17 – 18 minutes, stirring well: as they begin to brown, add the marinated chicken. Turn the heat up and cook the chicken until it is sealed.
  3. Stir well and at this stage, add the chilli powder, turmeric, cumin and coriander powder. Fry for a minute. Add the pureed tomato and mix well, scraping the bottom of the pan. Cook for 4 minutes.
  4. Turn the heat back to medium and add the yoghurt, a little at a time. Stir well, ensuring it doesn’t curdle, for 6 minutes. Add water, potatoes and season to taste. Turn the heat down low and cook the curry for 20 minutes with the lid on or until the potatoes are cooked through and the gravy reduced. Add the garam masala and let rest.
  5. In the meantime, in a frying pan, heat the oil and fry the shallots for 5 – 6 minutes on each side over a medium heat. Cook until slightly charred, add to the curry and stir well. Garnish with coriander and lemon juice and serve with rice or roti

* Or if you’re cooking curries as often as we are, get yourself a large jar of garlic and ginger paste from any good Indian supermarket and measure out the equivalent amount.

Maunika Gowardhan’s Pomegrante and Chilli Spice Chicken (Anardana Murgh)

Serves: 4

I typed up this wonderful Thali Nat and I plated a while back, from the aptly named cookbook ‘Thali’ by Maunika Gowardhan. And now I am back with the absolutely wonderful chicken curry.

Served alongside an excellent Spiced Turmeric & Coriander Potato Curry from the same book, this chicken curry is just pure moorish.

It is also really unique in terms of the heavy use of pomegranate powder, a style I had never encountered and wasn’t really sure of. (Note: I substituted mango powder (Amchur) which has essentially the same tanginess and qualities.)

It’s also a pretty simple recipe.

An absolute homerun of a curry. Mate it with a vegetable curry for a dahl and this is the perfect way to end the week and say hello to an Autumn weekend.

Ingredients

1kg boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 tbsp vegetable oil
300gm white onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp garam masala
1/2 c chicken stock
Salt to taste
2 green bird’s-eye chillies, slit lengthways
2 tbsp roughly chopped coriander leaves

For the pomegranate marinade

4 tbsp pomegranate powder (substitute mango powder (Amchur))
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 tbsp ground coriander
6 garlic cloves, pounded to a paste*
5cm ginger root, grated*
1 tbsp vegetable oil

Method

  1. First, make the marinade by mixing all the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Smear the mixture over the chicken pieces and leave to marinate in the fridge for 3 – 4 hours or overnight.
  2. When you are ready to cook, heat the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat. Fry the onions for 11 – 12 minutes, until they are soft and turn light brown.
  3. Tip in the marinated chicken pieces and fry, sealing the meat, then continue to fry for 5 minutes until the chicken is browned. Add the garam masala and stir well. Now add the stock, then season and bring to the boil.
  4. Reduce the heat to low, letting the mixture simmer gently. Cover the pan and cook for 9 – 10 minutes until the chicken is cooked through, stirring halfway through.
  5. Add the green chillies and fresh coriander. Stir and serve with warm paratha or rice.

* I always substitute garlic ginger paste from all good Indian supermarkets.

Kwality’s Chana Bhatura

Serves: 4

I wrote a long post some time ago about a meal we had in New Delhi which blew our minds.

The restaurant Kwality in Connaught, New Dehli, where we had this dish of chickpeas served with fried and puffed potato bread and my goodness, wasn’t it a revelation.

The chickpeas, soaked overnight in tea, and then braised with spices is literally perfection. Throw in that oily potato bread and this is just sex.

Nat keeps going back to many of the recipes we discovered on our Indian trip and this is one I am happy to go back to. Most happy.

Served with this Bhatura (potato bread), this is just heaven.

Ingredients

1 c white chickpeas, soaked overnight with a tea bag
1/2 tsp cumin
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cm piece of ginger, grated
2 cloves garlic, grated
2 tsp garam masala
2 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp dried mango powder (amchur)
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tbsp vegetable oil
Salt to taste
Slided red onion to serve
Lemon wedges to serve

Method

  1. Discard the tea bag and boil the chickpeas until they are soft. Drain and keep aside.
  2. Heat the oil in a pan and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the onion, ginger and garlic and sauté until the onion is golden brown. Add the garam masala, chilli, mango, coriander, cumin and turmeric powders and salt and sauté for another minute. Add the chickpeas and 1 c of water and mix well. Simmer for 15 minutes.

Adam Liaw’s Master Stock Poached Chicken Breast

Serves: 2

This is an absolutely wonderful way to prepare chicken breast in such a favourful way, ready for pairing with rice maybe some Asian greens.

Make the masterstock the nighr before and it’s set and forget.

And the ginger and spring onion oil? So simple, so beautiful.

For a casual, Asian feast (is casual and feast mutually exclusive?), this is a must.

Our boys kept taking leftovers from the fridge all the next day, a sure sign you’ve nailed it.

Ingredients

Faster Master (Stock) – 2 litres

1 1/2 ltrs quality white chicken stock
250ml dark soy sauce (or substitute light soy sauce if you prefer)
250ml Shaoxing wine
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled but bruised
1 small brown onion, peeled and roughly chopped
5 thick slices, ginger, unpeeled
1 cinnamon quill
3 star anise
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/2 c caster sugar

Chicken

2 ltrs Faster Master
2 chicken breasts, skinless
A handful of coriander to serve
Cooked rice to serve
Steamed greens to serve

Ginger & Spring Onion Oil

2 tbsp grated ginger
4 medium spring onions, white and light green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
1/2 tsp sea salt
3 tbsp peanut oil

Method

Faster Master (Stock)

  1. Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan and simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to cool, then strain out all the solids.
  2. When you use this liquid for poaching meat or fish, bring it to the boil for a minute or two after you have removed the meat or fish to kill bacteria, strain it, allow to cool, transfer to a freezer-proof container and freeze until you need to use it again.

Chicken and Ginger & Spring Onion Oil

  1. Bring the Faster Master to a simmer in a medium-sized saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the chicken breasts and cover tightly. Allow to stand for 10 minutes and test the internal temperature, and either continuing poaching (possibly over a low heat depending on where you are in cooking terms) or rest for 2 minutes.
  2. Pound the ginger, spring onion and salt in a heatproof mortar to a rough paste. Heat the oil in a pan over a high heat until smoking hot, then pour onto the mixture. Once the sizzling stops, mix the sauce and allow to stand until ready to serve.
  3. Slice the chicken, scatter with coriander and serve with the ginger and spring onion oil, rice and greens.

Ajoy Joshi’s Murgh Hara Masala

Serves: 4 – 6

Here we are yet again with an Ajoy Joshi recipe.

Trademark whisked yoghurt. The browned onions. Roasted cashews.

But then we add the herbs and chilli.

It takes a trademark Joshi dish in yet another direction and it is predictably wonderful.

As Nat put it, the onions give a depth, then flipped on its head by the fresh green chilli.

You taste the hint of cashew.

And the sum of the parts of just a beautifully warm and complex curry, as unique as every Ajoy Joshi curry is.

Incredibly clever.

I’ve only adjusted by adding one extra tbsp of double cream and using 1kg of chicken thigh instead of a whole chicken.

Ingredients

5 tbsp vetegable oil
3 brown onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp salt
1kg chicken thigh cut into 3cm pieces
1/2 c plain whole-milk yoghurt, whisked until smooth
1 tsp fresh ginger, grated
1 tbsp garlic, minced
Cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
8 whole black peppercorns
4 green cardamom pods
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
4 fresh mild long green chillis, roughly chopped
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh coriander
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh mint
1 tbsp unsalted roasted cashew nuts
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
3 tbsp double cream
Steamed basmati rice to serve

Method

  1. In a frying pan, heat 2 tbsp oil over a medium low heat, add the onions and salt and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are dark golden-brown. Transfer to a plate.
  2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine chicken, yoghurt, ginger and garlic and stir to coat the chicken evenly. Set aside.
  3. In a spice grinder, process the spices to a fine powder.
  4. In a food processor, combine chillies, coriander, mint, cashew nuts and fried onions and process until well combined.
  5. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat remaining 3 tbsp oil over a high heat and add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally until all moisture evaporates and chicken is lightly browned.
  6. Add the turmeric and 1/2 c hot water and stir until almost evaporated. The chicken should be cooked and tender by now.
  7. Add the ground spices, stirring until fragrant. Add the chilli mixture and cream, stirring through until well combined and heated through. Season and serve with steamed rice.
  8. An ale, riesling or pinot a must at this point. Trust me on this one.

Jolinda Hackett’s Vegetarian Bean and Rice Burrito

Serves: 4

Nat and I went for a good vegetarian tear before Nat announced Baby #4 -arriving October 2023.

This burrito is why vegetarian food is just as good – better – than the meat alternative.

And certainly, both of us will be back on the tear come November.

Healthier. Cheaper. And the whole carbon thing. You know, that thing.

The coriander-lime rice here is amazing.

And then be versatile with the ingredients. You definitely need guacmole, salsa and sour cream, though some black olives? Why not.

Fried corn. Shredded lettuce, Sauted mushrooms. Browned, sliced onions. Damn why not!

You said pan-fried zucchini? You know my answer.

Saturday lunch between chores (I know, should be the day for a long lunch, though that only means a cracking dinner is on its way), this is a great treat.

Wednesday night with a white wine.

I don’t mind when you do it. Though please do. It’s just great.

Ingredients

2 c cooked short-grain rice such as Jasmine
2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
2 limes, juices
1/2 medium onion, diced
3 – 4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp vegetable oil
400gm can black beans
1 tbsp chilli powder
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp hot sauce
Pinch salt
4 large tortillas

Accompaniments

Sour cream
Shredded lettuce
Salsa
Guacmole
Shredded cheese
Sliced black olives

Sauted mushrooms
Fried corn

Jalapeño slices
Tofu
Even scrambled eggs
You name it!

Method

  1. In a large microwave-safe bowl, toss together the cooked rice, freshly chopped coriander and drizzle with the lime juice. Heat in the microwave until just hot and give a quick stir.
  2. Ina separate skillet, sauté the onion in the oilfor 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Reduce the heat, add the black beans and season with the spices and hot sauce. Season with the salt, allowing the beans to cook until heated through. About 5 minutes.
  3. Warm the tortillas and spoon on the coriander rice and then the black bean mixture and then add all the toppings you want.
  4. Wrap the burritos: fold the short ends in, then fold one long side over the filling and gently push to ensure the fold is tight before rolling up the remaining of the burrito.
  5. Cut in half and serve immediately.

Colu Henry’s Sheet-Pan Harissa Salmon with Potatoes and Citrus

Serves: 4

This is another NY Times Cooking 5-star dish that hits it out of the park.

It is absolutely delicious. The marinade is wonderful.

It’s dead simple.

And all you need is one pan for cooking.

We’ve recently had five kids in the house – two cousins had come to stay – and whilst it was a fun and full household, it wasn’t without its moments. Certainly, post bedtime, we needed a wine or two!

As well as the hastily agreed need for a home date-night: essentially, open a nice wine, share a meal and talk about holidays, meals, plans, the family etc.

And despite the hasty agreement, this dish was a breeze whilst at the same time serving the kids noodles and refilling glasses of apple juice.

Served with a green salad and wow, this is one to line up for a cracking weekday dinner. It’s even better the next day

I have slightly adapted the recipe.

Ingredients

4 skin-on salmon fillets
Salt and black pepper
2 – 3 tbsp mild or spicy harissa paste
2 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, grated
1/2 tsp orange zest
1/4 c orange juice (from about 1/2 orange)
500gm baby potatoes, quartered
1 small red onion, peeled and cut into small wedges
2 tbsp olive oil
1/4 c coriander, leaves and stems roughly chopped
3 tbsp spring onions, thinly sliced on an angle
Sea salt, for serving

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 230c. Lay the salmon on a plate and season. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the harissa, ginger, garlic, orange zest and juice. Spoon the mixture over the flesh and sides of the fish and let marinate at room temperature.
  2. Meanwhile, line a large baking dish with baking paper. In a large bowl, toss together the potatoes and onion with the olive oil and season. Arrange in the baking dish in one layer, leaving space for the salmon fillets to be added later. Roast until the potatoes are starting to brown; 20 – 35 minutes.
  3. Add the salmon to the baking dish, skin-side down and roast until the fish is opaque and cooked through and the potatoes are crisp: 8 – 12 minutes. Scatter coriander and spring onions over everything and season with sea salt.