Rita Ashes was famous for her roasts, pineapple upside down cakes and her sausage rolls.
Rita with Nat in yellow.
These are old school and crowd pleasers. The trick is cutting them small like Grandma used to do so they are bite sized, easy to eat with your hand, treats. Maintaining a little dignity (as Grandma would have wanted) as you shove them in your mouth.
“Very good Dear” as Grandma would say.
Ingredients
Puff Pastry 1 egg, lightly beaten 750g sausage mince (cut the casing off of thin supermarket sausages) 1 onion, blended or thinly diced 1 cup breadcrumbs 1 tsp dried mixed herbs 1 egg, beaten Tomato sauce, plus more to to serve
Method
Once you have cut the casings off the sausages mix the mince, onion, breadcrumbs, 1 egg and mixed herbs in a bowl.
Cut a piece of puff in half and pipe a line of tomato sauce along the edge (one sheet will make two sausage roll logs)
Roll about 2 heaped tbsps of mince mixture along the tomato sauce line.
Roll making sure its secure. Cut into about 7 slices. Repeat with remaining mixture.
Brush each with the lightly beaten egg and bake for about 25mins on 180C until golden brown.
This is a deliciously creamy and warming feel-good pie. It has a homemade short crust on the base and frozen puff on top. I really recommend you go that extra mile and make your own shortcrust, you won’t look back!
Ingredients
For the shortcrust 1 1/4 c all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp fine salt 1/2 tbsp sugar 1/2 c (117g) very cold unsalted butter cut into small cubes 2 to 4 tbsp iced water
For the filling 5 tbsp butter 3 chicken thigh fillets, small dice 1 brown onion, thinly sliced 2 carrots, thinly diced 3 celery stalks, thinly diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 c flour 2 c chicken stock 1 1/2 c milk 1/2 tsp each of salt and pepper 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 1/4 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp dried parsley 1 c frozen peas 1 c grated cheese 2 sheets frozen puff pastry 1 egg
Method
For the shortcrust pastry: Add about half the flour with the salt, and sugar to a food processor. Pulse 2 to 3 times until its mixed. (Note: you will add the remaining flour later.)
Add the butter cubes and process until a dough begins to form, about 15 seconds and there is no uncoated flour.
Scrape bowl and mix around the flour-butter mixture then add the remaining flour. Pulse 4 to 5 times until flour is evenly distributed. (Dough should be broken up and crumbly).
Transfer to a bowl then add ice water — start with 2 tablespoons. Using a rubber spatula, press the dough into itself. The crumbs should begin to form larger clusters. If you pinch some of the dough and it holds together, it’s ready. If the dough falls apart, add 1 to 2 more tablespoons of water and continue to press until dough comes together.
Work the dough to form a ball. Wrap the ball with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. You can also freeze it for up to 3 months (just thaw it overnight in the fridge before using it).
For the filling: add 1 tbsp butter to a pan and cook the chicken thigh. Remove and set aside.
Add onion, carrots, and celery cooking over medium heat for about 5 mins.
Add garlic and cook for a further 2 mins. Remove all from pan and set aside with the cooked chicken.
In the same pan melt the remaining 4 tbsp of butter then add the flour. Mix continuously with a whisk over medium heat for about 2 mins.
Slowly add the chicken stock while whisking. If it’s looking clumpy you might need to get a hand mixer to make it smooth. Heat until mixture begins to thicken.
Stir in the milk, salt, pepper, sherry, thyme, and parsley. Let simmer for 3-5 mins without letting it boil.
Stir in the cooked chicken, peas and vegetable mixture and remove from heat.
To assemble: Roll out the shortcrust into a large circle. Make sure the circle is larger than your pie dish and will reach up the sides.
Add shortcrust to the dish and spoon in the filling. Sprinkle the cheese on top.
Top with puff ensuring you seal/press the puff to the shortcrust. Brush with egg mixture.
Trademark whisked yoghurt. The browned onions. Roasted cashews.
But then we add the herbs and chilli.
It takes a trademark Joshi dish in yet another direction and it is predictably wonderful.
As Nat put it, the onions give a depth, then flipped on its head by the fresh green chilli.
You taste the hint of cashew.
And the sum of the parts of just a beautifully warm and complex curry, as unique as every Ajoy Joshi curry is.
Incredibly clever.
I’ve only adjusted by adding one extra tbsp of double cream and using 1kg of chicken thigh instead of a whole chicken.
Ingredients
5 tbsp vetegable oil 3 brown onions, thinly sliced 1 tsp salt 1kg chicken thigh cut into 3cm pieces 1/2 c plain whole-milk yoghurt, whisked until smooth 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 tbsp garlic, minced Cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces 8 whole black peppercorns 4 green cardamom pods 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 fresh mild long green chillis, roughly chopped Leaves from 1 bunch fresh coriander Leaves from 1 bunch fresh mint 1 tbsp unsalted roasted cashew nuts 1/4 tsp ground turmeric 3 tbsp double cream Steamed basmati rice to serve
Method
In a frying pan, heat 2 tbsp oil over a medium low heat, add the onions and salt and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are dark golden-brown. Transfer to a plate.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine chicken, yoghurt, ginger and garlic and stir to coat the chicken evenly. Set aside.
In a spice grinder, process the spices to a fine powder.
In a food processor, combine chillies, coriander, mint, cashew nuts and fried onions and process until well combined.
In a large, heavy saucepan, heat remaining 3 tbsp oil over a high heat and add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally until all moisture evaporates and chicken is lightly browned.
Add the turmeric and 1/2 c hot water and stir until almost evaporated. The chicken should be cooked and tender by now.
Add the ground spices, stirring until fragrant. Add the chilli mixture and cream, stirring through until well combined and heated through. Season and serve with steamed rice.
An ale, riesling or pinot a must at this point. Trust me on this one.
Saturday lunch between chores (I know, should be the day for a long lunch, though that only means a cracking dinner is on its way), this is a great treat.
Wednesday night with a white wine.
I don’t mind when you do it. Though please do. It’s just great.
Ingredients
2 c cooked short-grain rice such as Jasmine 2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped 2 limes, juices 1/2 medium onion, diced 3 – 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp vegetable oil 400gm can black beans 1 tbsp chilli powder 1/2 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp hot sauce Pinch salt 4 large tortillas
Accompaniments
Sour cream Shredded lettuce Salsa Guacmole Shredded cheese Sliced black olives Sauted mushrooms Fried corn Jalapeño slices Tofu Even scrambled eggs You name it!
Method
In a large microwave-safe bowl, toss together the cooked rice, freshly chopped coriander and drizzle with the lime juice. Heat in the microwave until just hot and give a quick stir.
Ina separate skillet, sauté the onion in the oilfor 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Reduce the heat, add the black beans and season with the spices and hot sauce. Season with the salt, allowing the beans to cook until heated through. About 5 minutes.
Warm the tortillas and spoon on the coriander rice and then the black bean mixture and then add all the toppings you want.
Wrap the burritos: fold the short ends in, then fold one long side over the filling and gently push to ensure the fold is tight before rolling up the remaining of the burrito.
I described this recipe to a cooking mate and he said, “so you cooked Carbonara” and I said “sort of, though with onions and less egg yolks” and he said said “so you cooked Carbonara with onions”.
He’s right, though I’m typing it because it is a sensational pasta – one where Nat made our own linguini – as well that the addition of the onions really are lovely, especially with the size of the cut of the onion.
Salt 180gm slab bacon, ideally in one piece – or thick bacon 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 large yellow onions, , sliced 1.5cm thick (about 3 cups) 1 1/2 c hot chicken stock 500gm linguini 3 egg yolks 1 c freshly grated Parmesean cheese Freshly ground black pepper
Method
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil.
Cut the bacon into 1cm slices and heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over a medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring, untilthe bacon is lightl browned, but still soft in the centre, about 6 minutes.
If there is more and 3 – 4 tbsp of fat in the skillet at this point, pour off the excess. If less, top up to 3 – 4 tbsp with olive oil. Add the onions and cook until wilted though still crunchy, about 4 – 5 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil and adjust the heat to a lively simmer. Cook until the liquid us reduced by half.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente reserving some pasta water.
Laddle a cup of the pasta water and add it to the sauce along with the drained pasta. Bring to the boil, stirring to coat the pasta with sauce and adding stock or water as necessary to make it a generous coat.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the egg yolks one at a time, tossing them through the pasta. Add the grated cheese and black pepper, toss through and serve.
I always say it, though I just love finding a new dressing that nails it.
And here you have another.
I substituted crème fraîche as I had it on hand, though no change is needed here. It is just a wonderful dressing and one worth bookmarking.
Ingredients
1/2 c sour cream 2 tbsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 1 tbsp onion powder 2 tsp honey 2 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 garlic clove, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 c finely chopped chives, plus more for serving 10 loosely packed cups torn or chopped lettuce such as butter lettuce or romaine hearts
Method
Make the dressing: in a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients and a good pinch of both salt and pepper. Whisk until the mixture is completely smooth. Stir in the chives.
Toss through with your leaves, season and serve with additional chive battons sprinkled on-top.
What an absolutely lovely, fresh way to kick off a lazy Sunday lunch.
Nat and I never went to the restaurant Pinbone, though we did have dinner at their successor – I Maccheroni – a few weeks back and it was a really lovely Italian meal.
For this dish, I started with the foccacia and as the non-bread maker in the family, this turned out to be a real trick. Though not in the tricky vein.
Follow the instructions, lose faith at some point, though watch the dough transform and transform and wow. An absolutely wonderful base for the dish, with just enough oil to be interesting, a cracking crust and a soft interior. Yum.
It’s then the simplicity of the ricotta and the peas and beans. You don’t really need four varieties here and I swapped out Italian beans for the broadbeans. Though add the olive oil, lemon juice and then the mint and a big paste of ricotta, and with a glass of Champagne… this is why life is so good.
And can be so simple.
If I showed up to lunch and was handed one of these with a glass of wine, wow. What a way to set the bar and clear intentions of the afternoon ahead.
Ingredients
50gm sugarsnap peas, coarsely chopped 50gm frozen baby peas 50gm podded broad beans (about 150gm unpodded) – I substituted Italian beans and coarsely chopped 50gm podded edamame* Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 tbsp olive oil 150gm ricotta 1/4 cup mint, coarsely torn
Focaccia
460gm baker’s flour 1 tsp brown sugar 7gm (1 sachet) dried yeast 1/4 c extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
Method
For the focaccia, combine 450gm flour and 1 1/2 tsp salt in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Lightly whisk remaining flour, sugar and dried yeast in a separate bowl with 300ml lukewarm water, then leave until bubbles appear (5 – 7 minutes). Add oil to the yeast mixture, then, with the mixer on low speed, add yeast mixture to the flour and knwad until smooth and elastic (8 – 9 minutes). Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place until nearly doubled in size (20 – 30 minutes). Preheat the over to 230x. Gently knock back the dough, cover and prove until nearly doubled in size again (10 – 15 minutes). Transfer to a well-oiled 12cm x 23cm load pan**. Cover and leave to prove until about 1cm below top of tin (15 minutes), then bake until golden brown and the focaccia sounds hollow when tapped on the base (25 – 30 minutes). Cool on a rack (about 1 hour), then cut into 12 slices.
Brinf a saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch peas and bans for 20 – 30 seconds until bright green and still crunchy. Drain, then peel broadbeans and mix with lemon juice, oil and remaining peas and beans in a bowl and season to taste.
Toast/grill the focaccia slices until well toasted.
Spread the ricotta on focaccia, spoon pea and bean mixture on top, scatter with mint, extra virgin olive oil and serve.
* Frozen section of the supermarket.
** We’ve been baking our focaccias in a large, heavy skillet to great effect. Just keep and eye on it. These skillets get so hot, it brings forward the cooking time. This focaccia was done in 18 minutes in the skillet.
A read through the ingredients and then method of this dish and you can almost taste it.
The wonderful kale and herb dumplings, with the ricotta, feta and soudough breadcrumbs. And the broth, elevated with theinitial addition of vegetables.
And anything with dill has me listening!
Such a warm, hearty and really fun dish: especially elevated through the herbs and the addition of the lemon.
1 1/2 ltr vegetable stock Salt and freshly ground black pepper 300gm kale, thick stems discarded, leaces and thinner stems roughly chopped (150gm net weight) 1 eschalot, peeled and quartered lengthways 2 spring onions, quartered 1/2 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 1 lemon – zest finely grated to get 1/2 tsp and juiced to get 1 tsp 10gm dill, finely chopped 5gm chives, finely chopped 5gm tarragon leaves, finely chopped 80gm ricotta 60gm feta, roughly broken into 2cm pieces 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg 1 egg, beaten 60gm fresh sourdough breadcrumbs (about 2 slices, crusts removed)* 30gm plain flour 2 tbsp olive oil, to serve
Method
In a large saucepan for which you have a lid, bring the stock and 3/4 of a tsp of salt to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-high, then blanch the kale for four minutes, until soft. Drain the kale well and when cool enough to handle, squeeze the kale with your hands to get rid of any remaining liquid. Return the liquid to the stock pot.
While the kale is cooling, add the shallot, spring onions and garlic to the stock, simmer on a medium-high heat for 15 minutes, then discard the shallot and spring onions; turn off the heat.
Process the kale in a food process until finely chopped and put in a bowl with the lemon zest and juice, herbs, both cheeses, the nutmeg, egg, breadcrumbs, 1/3 tsp of salt and a good grind of pepper; stir to combine.
Line an oven tray with baking paper. Spread te floir on a large plate. Roll the kale mixture into 12 balls, dipping your hands in water from time-to-time to prevent sticking. The balls should be quite compact, so roll them tightly and put them on the tray as you go. Next, roll each ball in the flour a couple of times, applying pressure so they’re very well coated.
Return the stock to a medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to medium, gently lower in the dumplings, cover and cook for four to five minutes, until theyr swell and float to the top.
Divide the broth and dumplings between four bowls, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, drizzle over the oil and serve piping hot.
* When we have some leftover baguette or sourdough, I blitz it – crusts and all – in the food processor and add it to a bag of fresh breadcrumbs in the freezer. Means having fresh breadcrumbs always at hand.
I’m not the pastry or dessert person in our house, though I have come to appreciate that the French really did understand that you really don’t need to go overboard to achieve something truly delicious.
And this is a classic example of that. Chaussson aux Pommes.
This is such a classy, self-contained number.
Largely pre-prepared and something you could happily eat the next day with a coffee.
I spend my time on the savoury. The first and second course. Decanting the wine. Etc.
Though jeez I am happy for the slight stretch to include these in our last meal.
Won’t be the last time.
I have very slightly adjusted the recipe.
Ingredients
2 sheets of puff pastry 4 apples 1 tbsp lemon juice 100ml apple juice (or water) 50 – 60gm caster sugar, to taste 4 egg yolks, plus 1 to glaze 80ml crème fraîche or double cream Sunflower oil for greasing Icing sugar for dusting
Method
Take the puff pastry out of the fridge to dethaw and preheat the oven to 200c.
Peel, core and quarter the apples, dropping them into a bowl of water with the lemon juice to stop them discolouring. Drain them and put in a pan with the apple juice, put the lid on and cook over a low heat for 15 minutes until they are very soft. Remove the lid and simmer until all the liquid has evaporated.
Mash the apples with a potato masher, stir in the suggar and cook over a medium heat, stirring, for about 2 – 3 minutes to allow for liquid to evaporate.
Beat the 4 egg yolks with the crème fraîche. Add this to the apple mixture and cook over a low heat, stirring vigourously, for 1 – 2 minutes until the mixture thickens slightly. Leave to cool.
Lightly oil a large baking sheet with baking paper. Mix the remaining egg yolk with a drop of water.
Cut the 2 pastry sheets into four squares. Lightly brush the tops with the egg yolk glaze and bake for 20 minutes until puffed up and browned.
Leave the pastries to cool slightly, then slice through the middle with a serated knife and fill each one with about 2 heaped tbsp of the apple cream. Dust with icing sugar.
As well as this excellent herby garlic bread, a nod to a meal Nat and I had had a few weeks prior where the large pastings of butter, herbs and garlic on large toasted baguette were just great.
Homemade garlic bread has always been chalk and cheese with the store-bought crap that can never be calorie justified: this garlic bread makes one of the strongest arguments for why you should have at least two slices with dinner.
Ingredients
1 long French baguette
For the herby garlic butter
225gm quality, unsalted butter 2 tbsp finely chopped lemon thyme 1/2 tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary 4 tbsp inely chopped fresh parsley 10 – 15 garlic cloves, crushed Salt and pepper Finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon
Method
Preheat the oven to 200c.
In a pestle and mortar, pound your butter, herbs and garlic. Season well with salt and pepper and stir through the lemon zest and juice.
Slice the baguette thickly, though keep the pieces together so the loaf’s shape is intact. Place on a piece of foil large enough to wrap around it later. Slather each slice on both sides with the butter. If any is left over, spread over the crust.
Fold the foil over the baguette and cook for 20 minutes.
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